When copper gets hot, current flow slows down. The 12 awg was used because of extra high under hood temperatures that early smog era engines had. They used 12 awg from the firewall to the BAT terminal on the HEI distributor cap. HEI cars used 14 awg wire from the ignition switch (IGN-1) to the firewall/bulkhead connector. Points cars that had resistance wire under the hood, used 14 awg wire from the ignition switch (IGN-1) to the firewall/bulkhead connector. In fact, when you order new engine harnesses from places like American Auto Wire for your classic car, they give you the option of doing exactly this and will incorporate this into their harness kits. ![]() If the box ever fails I swap a couple wires and plug my resistor wire back onto the coil and I'm back on the road in a minute, and back to firing with points using the proper resistance. It's also nice when running an MSD box that needs a 12 volt trigger wire with a points ignition. No extra stuff anywhere to wire up, and it looks stock when finished. It was just a simple wire connection change at the coil and done. It's nice having it this way because it has saved me a couple times when I've switched the cars back to points. Now I have the option at the coil to hook up the resistor wire for points, or hook up the full 12 volt wire for an HEI or point conversion setup. I run the new wire in the harness following the resistor wire. ![]() So what I do is remove that junction block outside on the firewall, pop out the resistor wire, I have those special spade terminals here for larger gauge wire, so I run a 10-12 gauge from that connection, and also crimp the resistor wire in with it, plug it all back in. There is no resistor wires from the ignition switch to the fuse box. What you're describing is how I've done it for years and works just fine.Īll of my factory point ignition cars (except the Nomad) only use a resistor wire from the junction block to the coil, that's it. My question is: does that resistor segment of the stock ignition wire originate at the key switch, or the fuse block, or the wire connector cluster at the firewall below the master cyl? I'd like to tie a wire for the hei (for full time 12v) into the origination point of the resistor wire (pink/black(?)) right at its source so I can leave that original wire in tact. I want to install an hei distributor on my 1967 Firebird with 326. You either have to remove the green wire from the engine harness to the alternator, or you need to diode protect that circuit so it doesn't feed back. The drawback to this system is that if you've converted to an internally regulated alternator, or a 1 wire alternator, you'll get feedback through the "Gen" dummy light and the relay won't close on key off. It also give you full battery voltage at the HEI, which it will want. ![]() This will allow you to run the HEI without cutting up the harness or re-pinning the bulkhead for a larger gauge wire. Trigger the relay with the current coil wire. 10gauge wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the HEI. If you're concerned about being able to put the car back to stock easily without a bunch of mess, I would wire the HEI from a relay. The black wire with pink stripe that goes from the firewall bulkhead connector, to the coil is not the resister wire, but it's also not meant to carry the amount of current that the HEI needs. If the 67's have essentially the same wiring as the 69's, the resister wire will be in the fuse block.
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